Section 1: “If you don’t keep your feet there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to”
So first up a disclaimer - it’s been something of a battle getting started. I contracted covid two weeks before we were about to set off which threw a spanner into the works for planning, training and general readiness.
Nonetheless I managed to assemble resupply boxes, get my pack together and was ready for the road trip up to Parachilna dropping our provisions along the way.
The next spanner was a major car crash outside of Crystal Brook which saw the car we were travelling in written off. Luckily everyone involved was ok and walked away from the accident.
Thanks to my incredible wife Alison driving from Adelaide to collect us, finish the drop offs, drive us to Wilpena (where we slept) and then dropping us at the Parachilna trailhead the following morning, we managed to start on schedule.
Ali, i owe you one. You’re the best.
Day 1 was a hard one. I was off rhythm due to events and really feeling the respiratory impact of covid along with intermittent fatigue. Nonetheless I dug in for a day of walking through dry creek beds and majestic gums contrasted with cracked earth and wiry pines.
The ranges were a silent presence on our right dropping in and out of view throughout the day.
Getting to our campsite at Aroona Ruins was a welcome relief and I slept like a log.
Day 2 was a joy. The big sleep had boosted my energy levels and the weather was glorious with clear, sunny skies. Some decent climbing out of the campsite to a summit with stunning views of the ranges. It was definitely one of those moments that I hike for. True to form, Finch even whipped off his shirt for a classic shirtless summit photo.
We were even were lucky enough to see a yellow-footed rock wallaby towards the end of the day before arriving at Yanyanna Hut, which I now have a complicated relationship with.
I enjoyed the water tank, I didn’t mind my cowboy wash down standing on a camp platform with the cool desert air blowing on my bare backside.
I do not, however, enjoy hut mice. Fair play to them, seeking out delicious morsels provided by hikers - I get it. I draw the line at the little bastards sneaking up next to me while I’m trying to sleep and taking exploratory nibbles on my shoe.
Thanks for the experience Yanyanna Hut. It was real.
Day 3 was a mixed bag. Very little sleep, and neither of us felt like eating but we forced down our breakfasts and got moving knowing that we would be reaching Wilpena Resort with a good meal and comfy bed awaiting us.
Some hard, technical climbing and descending to start the day and some truly lovely sections scrambling through creek beds and a final section through a surprisingly lush and gently rolling forest.
Highlight of the day was seeing an emu mum with her gaggle of chicks - tiny, adorable latter-day velociraptors.
I was struggling towards the end of the day as I had developed some pretty gnarly blisters on the balls of both my feet and was feeling the covid again.
After we settled into our room at Wilpena Resort and got clean I thoroughly went over my feet with a sinking feeling.
Sim’s mate Guy met us at Wilpena like a ray of sunshine. He’d driven to Hawker and hitched a ride up to meet us for the next three days on trail. He was a welcome source of exuberance at the end of a long day.
Day 4 came with a hard decision. We had a 28km day ahead of us, my feet were shredded and the covid was kicking my arse. I had been pushing hard to get out on trail and it had finally caught up with me.
With a heavy heart I let Sim and Guy know that I was going to take a few rest days to heal up before meeting them in Hawker on Day 6. Both of them were incredibly understanding and Guy - who had known me for all of 12 hours - gave me the keys to his car to use for the next few days. Such an incredible gesture at a time when it was really needed and the first bit of trail magic for the day.
The second bit of trail magic came in the form of a lift from Wilpena to Hawker from David and Denise, a retired couple who regaled me with tales of their adventures all over the world. They were such lovely, articulate and interesting people and the car ride felt like it took no time at all.
I decided that I’d head to Quorn and find a place to stay. It’s a beautiful place and won the Tiny Tourism Town award for 2022.
I stayed at the Quandong Apartments adjoining the excellent Quandong cafe and highly recommend both. Thanks to Pat who sorted me out at a discounted rate.
At the time of writing Quorn is on the eve of its annual Quondong Festival, the quondong being a native fruit for which the town is well-known.
I particularly enjoyed the giant quondongs hanging in the Transcontinental Hotel along with the mounting festival buzz.
I spent most of my time in Quorn popping and draining blisters as well as sleeping/resting to deal with the remnant respiratory and fatigue issues covid is causing. I think it’s mostly worked.
I drove back to Hawker today to meet up with Sim and Guy again. It was awesome to walk into the front bar of the Hawker Hotel to see them drinking beers and regaling fellow patrons with their tales of the wilderness.
We’re now doing all the jobs required for the next section - so many jobs to keep the train rolling.
I’ve ordered new shoes as it’s clear my current ones don’t cut it.
Diabetes management is going well, I’m using way less insulin than usual and my blood sugar is generally sitting at a good level. I expect to have things fairly well dialled in by next week.
The next section will see us remote for five days but with only one big day to hike and a rest day plus new shoes at the end of it. Lots of good stuff to play for.
Big thanks to everyone I’ve spoken to over the last few days, appreciate the love and the morale boost. I feel lucky to be out here and lucky to be doing this with such a great mate. Let’s go Section 2!
Just love hearing about your endeavours, David. I’ll be thinking of you on the next section. Valerie
Keep up the good work lads!
Fabulous to read the update Dave and there are some amazing pictures you have!! Hope the feet are holding up on the next stretch too. The team at Diabetes SA are all backing you both and sending energising vibes. Talk soon Sabine 🙂