Section 6: Homecoming

Overall it's been a good section for me. It's been great to get back to so many familiar places, to see my family again and to find a bunch of hidden gem walking spots that are close to home.

I feel like my body has hit another level of adaptation - I was able to knock out a 50km day reasonably which was previously unthinkable. I'm still in awe of Neil and Jenna doing this continuously with their PCT hike.

There has been some tension between Dave and I and we parted ways for a time. Living on trail offers a high baseline of pressure, and managing interpersonal conflict can be difficult at the best of times.

On one hand, it's sad to miss the shared experiences of highlights and hardships. I think this is one of the best parts of being human. On the other it's given me a chance to have some different experiences, like walking into Mt Compass by moonlight after a very long day.

I think the time apart will do both of us well and I'm looking forward to reconnecting and hitting the finish line together.

Day 36 - Tanunda to Mt Crawford

It was hard to leave Tanunda. I loved catching up with Marlene, Jessica and Evelyn and seeing our friends the Putlands. The bed was huge and warm and a day off was a reminder of how much recovery my body has to do.

That will all come later, it was back in trail with a massive day. Marlene and the girls walked to the edge of town with us which was lovely. We farewelled and began on some of our favourite terrain - hilly paddocks!

The climb provided a great view of Tanunda and the surrounds and soon we were in the Kaiserstuhl Conservation Park. It's a great walk in spring, beautiful.

Afterwards we walked a section of roads through pretty country that was a mix of vineyards and grazing. The trail took me to the highest point, naturally hosting a transmission tower. I loved the view, the blend of organised rows of pine forest and vineyards.

I am fond of Mt Crawford, having had great camping experiences there. It was a treat to take it in from this perspective and see the a massive area it covers.

The trail took me over 2 unnamed mountains and then Mt Crawford, then a descent to the valley to the Centennial Campsite. Overnight was damp with many sounds of life - frogs, birds and koalas grunting.

Day 37 - Mt Crawford to Scotts Shelter

We packed up as best we could in the damp and started on what we thought would be another huge day.

We climbed Little Mt Crawford, enjoying a well made single track through pretty scrub.

It didn't take long to hit Chalks Campground, a familiar place with great memories. We'd walked this part of the trail before and were looking forward to it!

More good news, a discrepancy in the map info had reduced our days distance by 10kms, giving us some afternoon to rest.

The Warren Tower track delivered, bursting with the life of spring. I think this part might be the prettiest of the whole trail in terms of flora.

We left the park into Watts Gully. We stopped to admire a pretty cow and the farmer came out for a chat. It was wide ranging including road developments and crazy Russians. We learnt the cow was named Poppy.

Climbing out we saw our first echidna! They're always a treat and this one was particularly shy. We also met an orange trail wizard, godspeed you incredible human.

Scotts Shelter is an excellent site. The sunset was stunning and I enjoyed watching red breasted birds play and a kangaroo graze right out front.

Day 38 - Scotts Shelter to Cudlee Creek

It was a cold but beautiful morning. I'd slept well in the Zen Den and we ate breakfast watching the sun gradually cross a large and orderly pine plantation.

We set off. The trail provided many fantastic views, the rich green of pine trees in spring was great. After a while we were back on road, then some pretty hard paddock climbs. We had a nice view of Forreston and Gumeracha from the top.

We were met by Anna and Shannon for lunch at the Cudlee Cafe. I've cycled past many times and it's always busy. I was excited to try it out and it delivered! A wonderful steak sandwich, cake and couple beers and I was stuffed.

Dave wanted a shower at the caravan so we parted ways and I walked to Grandad's Camp. I was warned on the way up about some bulls and came across them, but they were no trouble and less concerning than a very angry loose dog earlier.

The campsite was great. The shelter is an old cubby house that sleeps 1, with a creek full of frogs nearby and the occasional grunt of koalas in the night. There was a beautiful moon peering in at me a couple of times through the night.

Day 39 - Cudlee Creek to Norton Summit

I hadn't been looking forward to this day. I'd encountered the massive hill climb here during an earlier test hike and suspected it's the hardest on the trail. There was also a large amount of climbing and descending prior so it wouldn't be on fresh legs.

The hiking out from Grandad's was excellent. There had been some fire damage but the views were great and plentiful.

A fairly sharp climb down to Valley Road and I was back in familiar territory. The creek was flowing the most I've seen and many flowers signalled spring.

The big climb was tough but ok. I took it very slow, sometimes zig zagging and my feet didn't play up too much.

That left a slow roll along the hilltops, eventually heading into Morialta Conservation Park. There was a light drizzle when I stopped for lunch on the Rocky Hill track overlooking Adelaide.

I thought the scale of the city would be a shock after such a long time away, but it was ok. It was a great feeling to see the familiar shapes and buildings, and the rock formations of Morialta were still evocative after all the things I've seen. It's a truly beautiful place.

I climbed out past the third falls in full flow and made it to Norton Summit with just enough time for a restroom wash before the Scenic opened.

We were met by our friends and I knocked back probably a few too many beers. The meal was glorious and even better was that we cracked our $10k fundraising goal for Diabetes SA that afternoon!

Day 40 - Norton Summit to Bridgewater

We went back home overnight. It was great to see everyone and sleep in my bed but I found it disorienting. We discussed taking a day pack owing to another stay back at home from Bridgewater. I gave it a shot hoping for more recovery in my feet but in the end regretted it, I should have stayed a purist.

The morning was damp and foggy. I like the feeling of walking in this but it doesn't do much for the view. The road walking to get to Horsnell was tight and busy with start of the day traffic.

Horsnells Gully is such a wonderful spot, one of my favourite hikes around Adelaide. I kept a lookout but didn't see any koalas. The climb out was tough as always.

A fancy goat caught my eye and I stopped for a photo. It came over very interested and I offered it some grass but it was more interested in smelling my fingers. When I offered those it bit me and rocked its head back like it was laughing. I suspect I fell for a regular hustle!

The Wine Shanty track came and went, with occasional sunbursts lighting up the scrub. I stopped for lunch and the views at Mt Lofty Summit. On the way out I saw a rare treat, a young kookaburra!

After a while the trail connected to the familiar Pioneer Women's Trail and I found myself in Bridgewater at days end. I caught the bus back to Adelaide for another home stay and enjoyed looking around the city with new perspective. I think the slower pace has changed how I observe the world and I enjoyed many details I've not seen before.

Day 41 - Bridgewater to Kuitpo Forest

A short tram and bus ride and I was back on trail. The weather had been great for a while so it was time for a good rain.

The morning was a mix of road and scrub walking with a coffee and cake in Mylor. This is a really pretty part of the Adelaide Hills with some great homes.

I was finally able to connect my internal map to a police facility I walked past - I'd attended some amazing training there in high school and always wondered where it was.

There was some very sodden paddock walking, some parts had boardwalk which was great. The in between parts ensured my feet were soaked.

Jupiter Creek was a surprise. It looks like there was a failed gold rush there with mines and a chimney left behind. I even saw a person out with a metal detector hunting for gold, although they said they'd never found anything. Good luck!

Coming in to Kuitpo there was a flooded ford. There was nothing to do but take off my shoes, roll up my socks and get it done.

I arrived at camp soaked and feeling a bit sorry for myself. I spoke with Marlene who suggested I try her Audible. It was great listening to Dave Grohl talk about his life while wrapped up in my sleeping bag getting warm.

Some people were camping at the hut nearby and I asked if I could share their fire. Virginia and Lynny were high school friends who do an annual camp on this weekend. Some of their crew couldn't make it this time, they were wonderful company and we enjoyed wine, barbeque and 70s music by the fire. Thanks for the great night!

Day 42 - Kuitpo Forest to Mt Compass

I took a slow start knowing it was a short day to Chookarloo, and perhaps a little hungover. When I checked the map and saw it was only 10km out, I decided I'd try and push on to Mt Compass and shave a day off.

Time will tell if this was a terrible idea, it ended up being a very wet and blistering (literally) 50km day, double my average so far.

FarOut for mapping has been amazing overall, but it was not up to date for Kuitpo Forest. There were many detours due to logging activity which added greatly to overall distance.

Some of the walking in Kuitpo was spectacular, and the scrub on approach and around Mt Magnificent was actually magnificent.

Late in the day, on very tired legs, I hit another flooded ford, this one flowing much more intensely than the last. Again there was nothing to do but get it done, I was deep in a valley and already running out of daylight for a massive detour.

I made it through without incident other than very cold feet. Having hiking poles was critical here, the bottom dropped out sharply in unexpected places and I could've easily taken a disastrous tumble.

The sun set and I was in for my first time walking by moonlight. It was a great to experience the dusk, different sounds and smells, and I saw many kangaroos closeup, hopping alongside me.

I made it through to the caravan park after 8, new owners Josh and Beck very welcoming. I got my washing on, ate and finally ended the day truly exhausted.

Day 43 - Mt Compass to Myponga

I made a late start after a long video call with Marlene which was great. I left the caravan park on sore feet but felt better than expected. The huge day before had done terrible things to Toto.

It was straightforward walking to begin, bitumen then dirt road with a gradual climb. This led to rolling hilltops with fantastic views and many grazing cows.

The trail passed a shooting club on the aptly named Lawless Road, which explained the gunshots I'd been hearing all day.

Then came a longish section of my least favourite terrain, marshy ripped up paddock. It's angular, muddy and too easy to end up with soaked feet which I really wanted to avoid after the previous day.

I got through ok, more hilly paddocks and hit Yulti Conservation Park. It was beautiful, super dense scrub with many wildflowers, although offered some very hard climbing.

I made it out to the amazing Heysens Rest, Jayne is a top notch host with a beautiful hobby farm.

Marlene drove up with the girls to deliver my final resupply box (thanks babe!) and we finished with a nice meal at the Yankalilla pub.

Next entry - Section 7: The Wild South Coast